Greta Costioli, 29, was once known on TikTok as the “glass skin girl.” Following the Korean beauty trend, she layered toners, serums, essences and moisturizers in pursuit of an exceptionally glossy complexion.

Costioli had used extra moisturizer since her teenage years because of her naturally dry complexion. When glass skin surged across social media, she embraced increasingly elaborate methods, including one that required seven separate layers of hydrating toner.

Such extensive routines have become common on TikTok and Instagram, where beauty influencers demonstrate how they use numerous products to create skin that appears dewy and almost reflective. Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber have also posted regimens that produced a similar appearance.

Moisturizing and applying sunscreen are positive elements of the trend, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Problems can emerge when people pile on too many products, potentially causing clogged pores, irritation and breakouts.

Dermatologists are warning that the glass skin appearance may be unrealistic and that the routines promoted online are not suitable for every skin type. They also note that many popular videos come from influencers without medical training and omit basic safety information.

Research presented September 29 at the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology Congress 2026 found that nearly 95% of the most viral videos about the trend contained misleading claims. Researchers examined leading videos across five search terms related to Korean skin care.

After exclusions, the authors assessed 38 videos for dermatological claims and safety information. They used the Global Quality Scale and modified DISCERN, a tool for evaluating the quality and reliability of health information.

“We expected to find some gaps in the quality of the information, but I was surprised by how consistent they were,” said Dr. Maria Lúcia Paysano, a dermatology resident at the Professor Rubem David Azulay Institute of Dermatology and the study’s co lead author.

Paysano said complex routines can encourage people to combine multiple active ingredients without considering their skin type, tolerance or risk of irritation. She said a routine should prioritize skin health and barrier function instead of merely reproducing a viral appearance.

Costioli initially saw positive results because her dry skin absorbed products well, and people online and offline complimented her appearance. But the success did not last as she continued following the extensive routine.

“However, I kept compromising my skin barrier quite often, because I was simply using too many products,” Costioli said. Small red bumps appeared on her face and lasted for several days, becoming more aggressive if she continued the routine.

Costioli eventually reduced the number of steps because the regimen was not sustainable for her. Experts emphasized that Korean skin care itself is not the concern, but social media can transform simple practices into complicated routines that are unsafe for some people.

Dr. Mona Gohara, a board certified dermatologist and clinical professor in Yale School of Medicine’s dermatology department, was not involved in the research. She said none of the analyzed videos were created by dermatologists and noted that other skin care trends have also amplified medically untrained voices.

Dr. Jane Yoo, a board certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon in New York City, said eliminating pores is not possible because pores are genetic and do not respond to layers of products. Yoo commonly sees contact dermatitis, rosacea and acne flares in patients who have used too many products.

Gohara said tightness, itching, tenderness, inflammation, flaking, scaling, redness or darker skin can signal barrier damage. She recommends pausing scrubs, exfoliating acids and retinoids, then using lukewarm water with a gentle, pH neutral cleanser that does not contain soap.

Barrier repair creams may aid recovery, while sunscreen should still be applied during the day. For a dewy appearance, Gohara suggests layering a light, concentrated hydrating hyaluronic acid serum, followed by moisturizer and then a barrier repair cream.

Yoo typically recommends a routine with four steps: a simple cleanser, one active ingredient such as retinol, salicylic acid or vitamin C, moisturizer and SPF. She also advises people to understand their skin type and consult a dermatologist about whether products are appropriate.

“The key is to know thy skin and know what it can tolerate,” Gohara said. “Add one product at a time, start slowly, and wear broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every day. Sun damage is one of the biggest vibrance killers, along with stress, smog, smoking, lack of sleep, and yes sugar.”